HQ 957249: Country of origin determination for men's shorts, and boys' shorts, pants, overalls and shortall; 19 CFR 12.130(b),(d),(e); cutting constitutes substantial transformation

Native CBP ruling rendition. Applicability is fact-specific; modification/revocation relationships and original publisher date are retained. Publisher sentinel year0001 means unknown date, not a historical legal adoption.

     


                            HQ 957249

February 23, 1995                

CLA  CO:R:C:T  957249  jb

CATEGORY:  CLASSIFICATION

Mr. Chris Koh Lian Chye
Pacific Garment Manufacturing Pte. Ltd.
627 Aljunied Road
#02-00, Pacific Building
Singapore 1438

RE:  Country of origin determination for men's shorts, and boys' shorts, pants, overalls and
     shortall; 19 CFR 12.130(b),(d),(e); cutting constitutes substantial transformation 

Dear Mr. Chye:

     This letter is in response to your inquiry of October 21, 1994, requesting a country of
origin determination for certain men's and boys' garments.  Samples of the garments' constituent
parts, before assembly into the completed garments, and the completed garments, were submitted
to this office for examination.

FACTS:

     The merchandise consists of two styles of men's shorts and six styles of boys' garments.  In
all cases, the fabric will be sourced in either China or Hong Kong, cut in Singapore and assembled
by sewing in either Indonesia or China.  You state that after assembly some of the garments may
be finished and packaged in either the country of assembly or in Singapore.

BOYS' GARMENTS:

     Style F (94/306A)

     Boys' size medium shorts, featuring an elasticized waistband with drawstring closure, side
     pockets and right back patch pocket; constructed of 100 percent cotton twill and denim;

     Style G (93/485)

     Boys' size medium shorts, featuring an elasticized waistband; constructed of 100 percent
     cotton denim;
     Style H (94/162)

     Infants' size small pants, featuring an elasticized waistband with belt loops, zipper fly and
     snap button closure, right front pocket with smaller inside coin pocket, left front pocket,
     back patch pockets, and ribbed knit cuffs on the pant legs; constructed of 100 percent
     cotton twill and denim; 
          
     Style I (94/074)

     Boys' size medium pants, featuring an elasticized waistband with belt loops, zipper fly and
     snap button closure, right front pocket with smaller inside coin pocket, left front pocket,
     back patch pockets, and contrasting cuffs at the pant legs; constructed of 100 percent
     cotton;

     Style J (94/156A)

     Infants' size 12 overalls, featuring a front rise and back rise, front patch pocket, right front
     pocket with smaller inside coin pocket, left front pocket, right back patch pocket, button
     closures below arm pit level and at pocket level on front of garment, adjustable straps with
     buckles, and snap closures along right leg and left leg; constructed of 100 percent denim;

     Style K (93/320)

.    Infants' size 3 shortall, featuring a front rise and back rise, front patch pocket, right and
     left front pockets, back patch pockets, button closures at pocket level and at slightly
     above pocket level on front of garment, adustable straps with buckles, and snap closures
     along right leg and left leg; constructed of 100 percent cotton denim;

MEN'S GARMENTS

     Style L (94/524)

     Men's size medium shorts, featuring an elasticized waistband with drawstring closure, a
     mesh liner, and front right pocket with snap closure; constructed of 100 percent cotton;

     Style M (94/525)

     Men's size medium shorts, featuring an elasticized waistband with drawstring closure, a
     mesh liner, and side pockets; constructed of 100 percent cotton.

ISSUE:
     
     What is the country of origin of the merchandise at issue?
LAW AND ANALYSIS:

     Section 12.130 of the Customs Regulations (19 CFR 12.130) sets forth the principles of
country of origin for textiles and textile products subject to Section 204 of the Agricultural Act of
1956, as amended (7 U.S.C. 1854).

     Pursuant to 19 CFR 12.130(b), the standard of substantial transformation governs the
country of origin determination where textiles and textile products are processed in more than one
country.  The country of origin of textile products is deemed to be that foreign territory or
country where the article last underwent a substantial transformation.  Substantial
transformation is said to occur when the article has been transformed into a new and different
article of commerce by means of substantial manufacturing or processing.
     
     The factors to be applied in determining whether or not a manufacturing operation is
substantial are set forth in 19 CFR 12.130(d)(2).  The following are considered:

     (i) The physical change in the material or article;

           (ii) The time involved in the manufacturing or processing;

          (iii) The complexity of the manufacturing or processing;

          (iv) The level or degree of skill and/or technology required in the manufacturing or              
          processing operations;

           (v) The value added to the article or material;  

     Section 12.130(e)(1) describes manufacturing or processing operations from which an
article will usually be considered a product of the country in which those operations occurred:  

     (i) Dyeing of fabric and printing when accompanied by two or more of the following          
         finishing operations: bleaching, shrinking, fulling, napping, decating, permanent                 
               stiffening, weighting, permanent embossing, or moireing; 
    
          (ii) Spinning fibers into yarn;

         (iii) Weaving, knitting or otherwise forming fabric;
   
         (iv) Cutting of fabric into parts and the assembly of those parts into the completed article; or




         (v) Substantial assembly by sewing and/or tailoring of all cut pieces of apparel articles which 
              have been cut from fabric in another foreign territory or country, or   
              insular possession, into a completed garment (e.g., the complete assembly of all cut          
              pieces of suit-type jackets, suits and shirts).

     We have previously held that cutting of fabric into pattern pieces constitutes a substantial
transformation of the fabric, resulting in the apparel pieces becoming a product of the country
where the fabric is cut (See Headquarters Ruling Letter (HRL) 952531, dated November 25,
1992; HRL 953697, dated July 26, 1993; and HRL 955125, dated January 27, 1994).

      As was stated by Customs in Treasury Decision (T.D.) 85-38 (19 Cust. Bull. 58, 70; 50
FR 8714), the final document rule establishing 19 CFR 12.130, in pertinent part:

     [T]he assembly of all cut pieces of a garment usually is a substantial manufacturing
     process that results in an article with a different name, character or use than the cut
     pieces.  It should be noted that not all assembly operations of cut garment pieces will
     amount to a substantial transformation of those pieces.  Where either less than           complete assembly of all the cut pieces of a garment is performed in one country, or the
     assembly is a relatively simple one, then Customs will rule on the particular factual
     situations as they arise, utilizing the criteria in section 12.130(d).
     
     Customs has consistently held that the mere assembly of goods by simple sewing, is not
enough to substantially transform the components of an article into a new and different article of
commerce (See HRL 082747, dated February 23, 1989; HRL 086665, dated March 23, 1990;
HRL 951169, dated April 1, 1992; HRL 951437, dated July 17, 1992; and HRL 952647, dated
January 27, 1993).       
     
     In the case of the subject garments, the assembly operations are minor combining and
sewing operations and do not possess the requisite degree of complexity to be deemed substantial
manufacturing processes for purposes of conferring country of origin status.  No great degree of
skill or technology is required, nor is tailoring involved. (See, HQ 954583, dated August 18,
1993; HQ 954446, dated August 11, 1993; HQ 952916, dated January 29, 1993; and HQ 952918,
dated January 29, 1993).  

     The operations performed in Singapore i.e., cutting the fabric, materially changes the
fabric into designated garment pieces.  This constitutes a substantial transformation of the fabric
and confers country of origin.  






HOLDING:

     The country of origin of the submitted merchandise, referenced style numbers 
F (94/306A), G (93/485), H (94/162), I (94/074), J (94/156A), K (93/320), L (94/524) and 
M (94/525) is Singapore.  It is in Singapore where the cutting takes place and where the fabric
last undergoes a substantial transformation and is transformed into new and different articles of
commerce.  

     The holding set forth above applies only to the specific factual situation and merchandise
identified in the ruling request.  This position is clearly set forth in Section 177.9(b)(1), Customs
Regulations (19 CFR 177.9(b)(1)).  This section states that a ruling letter is issued on the
assumption that all of the information furnished in the ruling letter, either directly, by reference, or
by implication, is accurate and complete in every material respect.  

     Should it be subsequently determined that the information furnished is not complete and
does not comply with 19 CFR 177.9(b)(1), the ruling will be subject to modification or
revocation.  In the event there is a change in the facts previously furnished this may affect the
determination of country of origin.  Accordingly, it is recommended that a new ruling request be
submitted in accordance with Section 177.2, Customs Regulations (19 CFR 177.2).



                              Sincerely,




                              John Durant, Director
                              Commercial Rulings Division